Air Craft DataSheet

AIR CRAFT DIY MOTOR SETS AC-DIYMOT-2207 Pricing HERE

Well, the state of the art in "Do-it-Yourself" motors is certainly advancing... AGAIN! This new AIR CRAFT DIY Motor is the sucessor to the popular Air Craft DIYMOT-DD and DIYMOT-GD motors, but packs 45% more power potential in a package that weighs only 32.5 grams! - featuring precision-machined components throughout, careful design, innovative magnet technology, and top-quality double ball bearings.  The magnets are pre-installed in the bell, so all that's left for you is to wind the stator and do the simple parts assembly. Should take less than an hour, even the first time!

The new motor gets its high power potential from the larger-diameter 22mm stator, with stator length increased to 7mm in the new 2207 DIY Kit, compared to the 20mmx4.5mm stator in our previous DIYMOT sets.  Although this means a tremendous boost in the motor's ability to swing large props, we limited the weight increase to only 3.0 grams by designing the bearing carrier and rotor bell on an advanced stress analysis software, which resulted in airy, yet very strong parts.  The 2207, with its large 9-pole stator, is a powerful solution for direct drive applications.  For a motor which remains very efficient at high rpm and easily fits almost all 300-400 gearboxes and EDF, see the 6-pole VL motor set.

Here's a picture of the new 2207 motor set

Here are some closeup shots of the design, without winding to allow a better view.

	Compact dimensions overall, with a substantial length to the shaft retainer portion of the bell.  The shaft fits tightly, to insure precise centering of the bell in the bearing carrier, and is retained by double setscrews. The shaft retainer is tall enough that you can replace the setscrews with normal panhead or countersunk screws, and move the shaft so that 1cm protrudes from the retainer.  Then GWS SF props can be mounted directly in a prop-saver mode!  For the backmount, use the AC backplate which now includes a 3mm collar to retain the motor shaft.
	Here's a good shot of the bearing carrier, which has two mounting positions: M3 at 16mm spacing and M3 at 19mm spacing.  You can see the thick, high-gauss preinstalled magnets, which are rounded on the bell side to improve thermal transfer and form optimal magnetic flux. Magnet-to-Stator gap is minimized, further increasing effciency.

Here are the features:

*Custom Steel Bell with installed super-strong magnets
*9 pole stator
*0.32 mm wire (enough for two winding sessions)
*2.0mm Shrink tube for the wire
*2.4mm Gold Connectors for ESC <> Motor connection
*4.0mm Shrink tube for the connectors
*Hardened steel motor shaft witch C-clip retainer
*(2) ball bearings
*Mounting screws
*16 mm and 19mm by M3 mount patterns

Recommended option parts:

After we've finished collecting a LOT of prop data on all the Hyperion motors, and the Feigao 12mm motors, we'll be doing a number of different winds for you on the DIY-2207.  Until then, you're on your own!  Using the stock wire in single-strand, a rank beginner can easily get 32 turns on, and an experienced diy modeler even more.  In delta wiring, that would be a great setup for the shockflier class up to 320g models... Star wind pictured on left below, delta on right.  See assembly notes below winding diagram, too.

When winding the stator, make the loose ends about 7cm long (3") to be sure they are long enough. You can trim them to final length later, but adding length is much more difficult!

*When the stator is wound as above, you'll start assembly by fixing the stator to the bearing carrier (aluminum part) with a LITTLE BIT of loctite. One stroke of loctite on either side of the carrier is enough.  If you need to remove the stator later, you can heat it with 100W soldering iron to loosen the loctite.

(photo from previous DIYMOT-DD set)

*Because the DIYMOT-2207 has a retaining clip on the shaft, there is no need to loctite the bearings into the carrier.  The tolerance between the bearings and the carrier is tight to make sure shaft alignment in correct. In fact, it may be a little TOO tight. It is best to roll up a piece of 400-grit sandpaper into a tube and twist it inside both bearing seats a few times to be sure the fit is smooth and non-binding. And always be sure to align any bearings properly BEFORE pressing into a carrier, or you'll get them stuck!

*Now cut the motor wires to desired length. Use paint remover to remove the enamel coating on the end of the wires; about 5mm (1/4") of clean wire is enough. Twist each wire set togther and tin with solder. Use the 2mm heatshink to insulate the motor wires.  Solder on the male connectors [the connectors are hollow inside, so hold them in a clamp parallel to the floor when soldering to avoid filling them entirely]. Insulate the connectors with the 4mm shrink tube.

YOU'RE DONE!!
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