Thank you for purchasing this Hyperion R/C Products Super Scale YAK-55SP “10e”!
We’re confident that you’ll have fun building and flying the model,
and especially enjoy showing it to your flying buddies…

Before beginning construction, please carefully read the following safety notes:

 

·          The Hyperion YAK-55SP with Z3007 motor is a fast and highly maneuverable airplane.  It is NOT intended for beginners.  However, anyone with experience building and flying a few models, including one with aileron control, will be able to master the YAK-55SP.  Never hesitate to ask an experienced friend to check the model setup and perhaps test fly the model for you.

·          Start with model balanced at CG point furthest forward, 60mm (2.4”) from wing leading edge, measured against the fuselage.  Set Dual-Rate switches at 65% for Aileron and Elevator for first flight.

·          Never fly a model airplane without a current membership in the R/C organizing body in your country.  That may be the AMA in the USA, or the FAI in many other countries.  Membership should include liability insurance.  Check to be sure that you have it.

·          Always check your flying field to be sure that it is safe before launching your model.  Do not fly where others, especially children, may come into the flight path without your notice, such as a public park.

·          Be sure that your transmitter, receiver, batteries, and servos are in good condition before every flight.  Check carefully to see that no one else is using your frequency near your flying site.

·          Many crashes are due to poor connectors or improper soldering between battery and ESC, or ESC and Motor.  Experienced builders: Don’t let pride stop you from checking to be sure that EVERY solder joint is good. Re-solder with a HOT iron if you have any doubts. Use only quality gold-plated connectors.

·          Test motor/controller/battery setup without propeller attached first.  When propeller is attached and battery is connected, be sure that the model is restrained at all times.  Never put any part of your body in front of a spinning propeller.

·          ALWAYS do a range test before first flight.  With antennae DOWN, range should be at least 25M (80’) before servos jitter.  With antennae UP, 100M minimum (330’).  When flying, keep your transmitter antennae pointed near vertical; never point directly at the model.

·          Model airplanes are powerful and can be dangerous. Think and move carefully; never rush.

 

Required Gear:

Transmitter:  4-Channel minimum, 6-Channel preferred		*With 4-Ch system, a “Y” harness is required to connect the two wing servos.  Servo mixing is not possible.
Receiver:       4-Channel minimum, 6-Channel preferred
Servos:          4 Sub-Micro 6g~12g in weight each		*Suggest Waypoint W-060BB  4-pack
Servo extension wires:    2x 20cm extensions for Wing Servos		*Suggest #HP-WR-004
Brushless Motor and controller set:    For super performance, use: Hyperion HP-Z3007-26 motor, TITAN 30A Brushless ESC, and prop adapter HP-ADAP-40XL (this is available with motor connectors as a “full set” at discount in most shops) SEE LAST PAGE OF TEXT FOR PROP RECOMMENDATIONS
Battery:  1200~2200mAh Lithium 3S                8~10 cell 1100mAh NiMh	*Suggest HP VX1200-3S for 3D, VX1500-3S for mixed aerobatic/duration
Suggested connectors: Motor<>ESC : 3.5mm Gold Short Bullet Connectors  (included with full power set) ESC<>BATTERY : Dean’s Ultratm  Connectors
Other:   Some “Velco” hook-and-loop tape, and double-sided  tape is handy to secure radio gear and battery

 

Required Tools:

*Small and Medium-sized phillips (+) screwdrivers	*Sharp hobby knife
*Small “needle-nosed” pliers	*Sharp scissors
*Metric Drill bits, 1.0mm and 1.5mm in size	*A black marker pen
*Epoxy 2-Part Glue, 5~10 Minute type suggested	*CA Thin (fast setting) super glue
*Straightedge ruler (thin metal type is best)	*CA Medium (thicker) super glue
*Measuring Tape	Metric Allen (hex) wrench set

            TEXT INSTRUCTIONS MAY DIFFER FROM DIAGRAMS - IF SO, FOLLOW THE TEXT!
BUILD GUIDE - Following the numbered diagrams

Diagram #1 - AILERON
*Remove the ailerons from right wing side.  Insert hinges in the wing side half way, and be sure that each is 90 degrees to the trailing edge.  Secure each with a drop of fast CA glue.  Fit Aileron onto the hinges.  Hold aileron to full deflection one way, and secure aileron side with one SMALL drop of CA glue on each hinge.  Be careful not to use too much CA.  Repeat hinge fitting for left wing side.

*Open the covering around the aileron mounts with sharp knife, to fit your chosen servos.

Diagram #2 - MAIN WING

*Test fit the wing servos, and drill 1.5mm holes in the ply mount for the servo screws.  Remove servos and apply a TINY bit of fast CA glue to each screw hole to harden it.

* See the diagram for assembly of laser-cut light horns.  Assemble as pictured, and secure with of CA glue on top and bottom sides.  Horn should be well glued to the ply plates, and the plates should be glued to the aileron on both sides. (Instructions call for Epoxy here, but we have good results with CA)

*Attach 20cm servo extensions to the servo connectors, and feed the extensions through the wing until they come out at the wing root, through the hole behind the spar.

*Install servos.

*Install Z-Bend piano wires in the laser horns, top hole.

*Plug servos into the correct channel positions in your receiver.  Turn on transmitter, and check to be sure that servo mixing is properly set (if using 6ch setup), that trims are “zero”, and that servo rotation direction is correct.  Connect 4.8V test battery to receiver, or Speed controller’s receiver connector and main power pack.
                                                   [Motor should NOT be connected now!].

*When the servos have centered, install servo horns, with arm pointing parallel to the wing trailing edge.

* Move the Z-Bend wires over the outside hole in the servo horn arm.  Mark the position with black marker.

*Disconnect power from receiver, turn off transmitter.

*Remove Z-Bend wires from laser-cut aileron horns, and use needle nose pliers (or actual Z-Bend tool) to make a Z-bend for the servo horn sides.

*Remove servo horns from servos.  Install Z-bend wires in laser-cut aileron horns. Install Z-bend wires in Servo horns.  Attach servo horns to servos with the correct servo horn screws.

 

Diagram #3 - STABILIZER / VERTICAL FIN

*Remove covering from the areas shown.  IT IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT THAT YOU DO NOT CUT INTO THE BLASA.  Use a VERY sharp knife along a straightedge with very light pressure, then test to see if the covering can be pulled away.  If not, make another LIGHT pass with the knife and test again.

*Note the diagram in lower left corner showing proper alignment of stabilizers.

*Glue Vertical Stabilizer into slot in fuselage as shown using Epoxy glue, making sure of alignment before the glue is fully set.

*Glue Tail Landing wire into Rudder using Epoxy glue. (this is shown in Step 4, but do it NOW)

*Attach hinges to the Rudder side only, as we did for the ailerons before, using CA glue.

*Install and hinge the Horizontal Stabilizer and Elevator - THIS IS A LITTLE TRICKY, SO PAY ATTENTION!…

·          Slide the Elevator through the slot in the fuselage.  Make sure that the correct side is “UP”!

·          Slide the Horizontal Stabilizer through the slot in the fuselage.  Make sure that the correct side is “UP”!

·          Insert the hinges into the Horizontal Stabilizer half way, align, and secure each with a drop of CA

·          Bow hinges and work them into the corresponding slots in the Elevator, until fully inserted.

·          Push Stab and Elevator firmly together until no gap exists, then deflect the Elevator 45 degrees up and down one time.  A hairline gap should be visible running evenly down the two parts.

·          Fix hinges with a drop of CA glue on each hinge, while slightly deflecting the Elevator.

*Align the Horizontal Stabilizer in the fuselage and measure Right/Left sides to front-center of fuselage as shown B-B, to be sure that it is aligned properly in yaw axis.  A few straight pins are handy to temporarily fix the Stabilizer.  When satisfied, Glue only ONE intersection of Stabilizer and fuselage with CA.

*Now check that the Horizontal Stabilizer alignment is 90 degrees to Vertical Stabilizer, A-A.  When satisfied, glue the other three intersections with CA Glue. (“medium” CA Glue is useful here to fill gaps)

*Insert the Rudder assembly hinges into the slots in Vertical Stabilizer and Fuselage, glue hinges, install rudder and deflect it 45 degrees, and glue each hinge in rudder with a drop of CA.

 

Diagrams #4 - RUDDER Pushrod  and #5 -  Elevator Pushrod
*Skip to Diagram #9 and install the servos and pushrods in fuselage temporarily - with radio ON and servos centered.
* Hold rudder and elevator centered with Horns installed NO GLUE - Check to see where the Z-Bend should be at the servo side.  Make Z-Bend in rod ends. Install Servo Horns on pushrod Z-Bends you just made, and install horns on the servos.
*Now, the Laser-cut horns for Elevator and Rudder must be installed on the Pushrod Z-Bends FIRST, and then glued into the control surfaces.  Check that Elevator and Rudder are trimmed.  Adjust servo horns if necessary; or you can make small bends in the pushrod wires near elevator and rudder to reach perfect trim.
Diagram #6 - Landing Gear

*Assemble Landing gear as shown in the diagram.

*Check to be sure that the wheels turn freely.
*Attach Gear assembly to fuselage as shown.

 

Diagram #7 - MOTOR

*The Diagram shows mounting motor with two screws.  Use 4 if possible!
* Be SURE that the screws you have will not enter the motor too far.  If they do, you will damage your motor!

Check the motor mounting plate of your kit.  If either the front of back sides are bare wood (no fiberglass veneer), then your kit should have two fiberglass reinforcement plates and installation instructions included (click here for the assembly guide).  If these are not included, contact your dealer to receive them.

If your motor mount has fiberglass on both sides of the mount, then simply install the motor using 4 screws.

To install the Z3007 motor:   *Run motor wires through the triangular hole at bottom-front of motor mount. *Let motor shaft protrude through the center hole in mount face. *Push down on the back of motor until it drops into place.

 

* This is a good time to mount the Speed Controller to the right or left side of motor mount, using double-sided tape (the thick foam kind) or “Velcro” hook & loop tape
(Do not mount ESC directly with no vibration protection - nor “cinch” it down with a zip-tie!!!)

 

Diagrams #8 MAIN WING and #9 - Fuselage

*Cut away the covering from the fuselage where the main wings are inserted

*Install the Hooks such that they can pass through the open space in fuselage, just behind the main spar

*Insert Spar Joiner into the fuselage

*Pass the servos extension wires through the holes in fuselage, and install both wing halves on the Spar Joiner.

*Loop the rubber band between the hooks repeatedly, until it is “fairly” tight (super-tight not required!)

NOTE:  The YAK-55SP has been designed to be easily portable and repairable, DUE TO THE removeable wing SYSTEM.  IT HAS BEEN EXTENSIVELY FLIGHT TESTED WITHOUT FAILURE.  However, if you have any reservations about the strength of the system, or consider yourself a “wild” pilot, we recommend that you assemble as given ABOVE, but fix the Spar JOINER with CA, then attach the wings to fuselage sides with 10-minute epoxy.  IT’S “YOUR DECISION” ON HOW YOU FIX THE WINGS!  IF YOU USE THE REMOVABLE WING SYSTEM, CHECK THE SPAR JOINER FOR DAMAGE BEFORE FLIGHT, AND CHANGE THE RUBBER BANDS OFTEN!

Diagram #10 -  Cowling and Canopy
COWL
* The exact position of the Cowl is best determined by first installing the motor and prop adapter, then checking that sufficient clearance exists between propeller and Cowl, with cowl centered relative motor shaft.

*Once satisfied with position, temporarily use cello tape to hold the Cowl in position relative to the fuselage.

*Drill 1.5mm holes through Cowl and Cowl Mounting Points as pictured

*Remove Cowl, and put a SMALL drop of CA (use a toothpick to apply) in each hole in the mount points, to harden the screw holes.

*Remount cowl and install propeller
*The canopy has a wood support base with two “pins” and matching slots in the firewall.  Slide these together, and let the canopy settle into position over the retaining magnets.

 

FINAL SETUP

*Install your receiver and adjust transmitter as recommended by the manufacturer.

·          See Setting, Control Throws, and CG sections for recommended setup.  (Diagrams 11, 12)
Reposition battery as needed to obtain 60mm CG position for first flights.

·          Also check that the model is balanced Right/Left (roll axis) and add lead weight to one wingtip if necessary.

·          Set your DUAL RATE LOW Switches for Elevator and Aileron to 60%~75% of recommended throws, and use DUAL RATE LOW for the first flights.

·          Range Check your radio system before flight

·          Have a friend confirm correct deflection of all control surfaces before flight.

·          Fly off hard packed dirt, asphalt, or closely cropped grass

 

HAVE FUN FLYING! (and tell everybody how much you love your Hyperion YAK-55SP, please…)

 

 

HYPERION Z3007-26 Motor + TITAN 30A Controller Set

 

Here is some data using Hyperion LVX lithium 3S (11.1V) battery packs and APC “E” series propellers.

These results are with a freshly charged battery pack during the first 10 seconds of discharge.  Actual average current will be lower, as battery voltage drops during the flight.  Keep in mind, also, that this is an EXTREMELY powerful system, such that full throttle is rarely used for more than a few seconds at a time.

Battery	Prop	Volts	Amps	RPM	Watts
HP-LVX1500-3S	APC9×4.5E	10.07	20.4	9930	206
HP-LVX1500-3S	APC10×5E	9.8	25.4	8940	249

For most pilots, the 9x4.5 prop is ideal, still giving very powerful performance and also extended flight times.  “Pro” 3D pilots, however, may prefer the incredible vertical performance obtained with the 10x5 “E” prop.

 

For most users we recommend the 1500mAh pack; it is still light, and provides longer flights (depending on your style, 7 to 15 minutes).   The lighter VX1200-3S pack allows for better 3D “feel” at sub-stall maneuvers, if that is your primary goal.